A large number of historic monuments are scattered throughout the Municipality of Monemvasia. As in the rest of the Peloponnese, there are numerous reminders of the region’s turbulent history of invasion and wars, but also of its human achievements.

Its past history emerges in the writings of that traveller of antiquity, Pausanias, who described in detail the most important monuments in the region, such as the town of Epidaurus Limera, still prosperous when he visited it, and traces of which still stand facing Monemvasia. Ruins of other ancient towns still remaining include Ancient Kyphanta, at Kyparissi, and the fortress of Zarakas, at Gerakas.

The Municipality of Monemvasia is perhaps one of the only places in the world where there are not one but two submerged ancient towns – the prehistoric settlement of Pavlopetri near Neapoli and the ancient town of Plytra, at Asopos, both now largely under water as the result of seismic activity throughout the Maleas peninsula. The ruins of both are visible to swimmers using goggles and snorkels.

The existence of a number of fortresses shows that the region was subjected to repeated invasions. From antiquity, but particularly in the Middle Ages, the local population was forced to fortify its settlements in order to survive the repeated wars, invasions and pirate raids. The most important of all – and one of the most beautiful medieval towns in the Mediterranean – is the fortress of Monemvasia, for many centuries an invincible bulwark but also a place of prosperity and culture.

Smaller fortresses and fortification works worth visiting include the fortress of Aghia Paraskevi near Mesochori, and the ruins of Palaiokastro at Papadianika.

A military monument from the more recent past is the German Watchtower built during the World War II occupation above the village of Velanidia, near Cape Maleas.

Reminders of more peaceful times include the watermill at Talanta and the folklore museums at Velies and Riechia. Finally, the recently restored Cape Maleas lighthouse is a sight not to be missed.

Ancient Epidaurus Limera

Epidaurus Limera, north of the town of Monemvasia, was one of the most important towns in ancient Laconia. Today, only a few traces remain of the city’s acropolis, near the modern settlement of Aghios Ioannis, Monemvasia.

According to the legend referred to by Pausanias (III 23, 6), its first inhabitants came from Epidaurus in the Argolid (where a famous ancient theatre still stands). They had abandoned their original home because of dreams and omens that appeared to them during a pilgrimage to the temple of Asclepium on the island of Kos.

They built a temple to Asclepius in the new town, which reached its peak during the Imperial Period, that is after the first century AD.

The site had been inhabited since prehistoric times, however, as artifacts (potsherds) dating from the Neolithic Age have been found around the acropolis.

During the Mycenaean period there must have been an important and thriving settlement where the acropolis stands. Unfortunately, no architectural remains of any such settlement have been found during the limited archaeological excavations that have taken place. However, its existence is assumed from findings in chamber tombs discovered in the nearby sites at Aghia Triada in Vamvakia, and at Palaiokastro, dating from the 15th to the 11th centuries BC, during the Late Helladic Period.

During the Archaic and Classical periods, Epidaurus Limera was one of Sparta’s perioeci (surrounding) towns and appears to have been the most important on the eastern coast of Cape Maleas.

It was destroyed twice by the Athenians during the Peloponnesian War as a show of strength against Sparta, in 424 and 414 BC (see Thucydides 4, 56 and 6, 105). Its walls were probably built during the 4th century BC or later.

Its development during the Classical Period has been confirmed by a reference to the name Epidaurus of Laconia in an inscriptioon containing a list of consuls from Karthaia, on the island of Kea, during the 4th century BC.

During the Roman period it belonged, according to Pausanias (III, 21.7) to the Free Laconian League, while inscriptions such as one referring to a territorial dispute between Epidaurus Limira and Zarakas were erected in the Temple of Apolllo Hyperteleatum in Finiki, Laconia. The names of priests from Epidaurus are also mentioned on bronze artifacts found in the the same temple.

Other findings at the acropolis, such as a building with a mosaic floor and an inscribed pedestal on which stood statues of Empress Julia Domna and members of her family dating from the 2nd century AD, indicate the town flourished during the Imperial Period.

Remnants of buildings dating from later antiquity are mainly to be found on the south side of the acropolis. The site must have been inhabited until at least the end of the 6th century AD, when neighbouring Monemvasia became the regional urban centre.

References to the archaeological remains of the acropolis were made as early as the 18th and 19th centuries, when a number of travellers such as Castellan, Boblaye, Leake and Curtius devoted lengthy chapters of their books to descriptions of the surviving ruins of this ancient town.

During the 1930s and 1950s excavations were carried out at the Vamvakia, Aghia Triada and Palaiokastro sites that also brought to light a large number of Mycenaean chamber tombs.

Location:
Aghios Ioannis, Monemvasia
Information:
On the road from Monemvasia to Gerakas, turn right before Aghios Ioannis. The archaeological site is about one kilometer further on.

In the steps of Pausanias

In the steps of Pausanias:

Pausanias was a Greek traveller from Asia Minor who lived in the middle of the 2nd century BC. He achieved fame for his Description of Greece, or Periegesis, a lengthy work in which he recorded his impressions of the Greece of his day. It has survived as a valuable link between classical literature and modern archaeology.

In his Description of Greece Pausanias relates his travels through the Peloponnese and part of northern Greece in ten volumes, the third of which is titled “Laconia”.

Regarding his journey through the area now comprising the municipality of Monemvasia, he refers to places and monuments of which traces can still be seen today, 1,900 years later.

He begins in Asopos, where he observed a temple of the Roman emperors, along with the ruins of the town of Cyparissia, some of which are still evident at Kokkines, on the coast just south of Plytra. On the seabed not far from the shore lie several ruins. Swimmers take note that only ordinary swimming goggles and snorkels are allowed while viewing them.

Pausanias also refers to the Asclepeion of Apollo Hyperteleatum, situated near the village of Finiki a little inland, where inscriptions have been found and a number of ruins are still to be seen of this former sanctuary of the League of Free Laconians.

Heading southeast, Pausanias then mentions a headland called Onugnathus (Jaw of an Ass). Later, this headland became separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, and now forms the island of Elafonisos.

He then goes on to refer to the city of Boeae at the head of the gulf of the same name, populated by inhabitants fleeing from the cities of Etis, Aphrodisias and Side who, when they landed on the coast, followed a hare, a symbol of the goddess Artemis. They built their new city on the site where the hare disappeared into a myrtle bush. Unfortunately no trace remains of ancient Boeae, where the town of Neapoli now stands.

The island of Kythera was also referred to by Pausanias. The ruins of its ancient port of Scandeia are still to be seen at Palaiopolis.

During his travels on Cape Maleas, Pausanias found two temples, the Nymphaeum, dedicated to Poseidon, and Epidelium, dedicated to Apollo. The latter was named after the wooden image of the god standing there which originally came from the island of Delos. It had been thrown into the sea by barbarians led by Mithridates after they had sacked the island. The image then washed up on the eastern shore of Cape Maleas. The Epidelium is believed to have been sited at Aghios Fokas, where ruins are visible close to the coastline.

Leaving Boeae, Pausanias continued north into Epidaurus Limera, traces of which are still evident around Old Monemvasia on the coast near the village of Aghios Ioannis. Experts believe a small lake south of Epidaurus Limera to be the Ino referred to by Pausanias.

The promontory known in antiquity as Minoa has been identified as that now occupied by Monemvasia. According to Pausanias, the coastline here was strewn with pebbles of more beautiful shapes and colours than any other. Wandering through the medieval fortress of Monemvasia, today’s traveller cannot but be aware of the region’s long centuries of history.

Pausanias’ travels next took him to what he described as the “most ruinous” town of Zarax, another member of the League of Free Laconians. Today’s visitors approaching the village of Gerakas from the sea will realise on entering the narrow fjord that this is the place he was referring to. Above the settlement to the left is a view that Pausanias must have seen nearly 2,000 years ago. The precise position of ancient Zarax is evident from the remains of the impressive walls still standing.

Following the coast, our 2nd century BC traveller from Asia Minor next came upon the ruins of ancient Cyphanta, some of which are still visible in beautiful Kyparissi, at Kastraki, between the settlements of Paralia and Vrysi, a short walk from the latter. Just before the settlement are caves at the foot of a cliff, the site of the Asclepium also referred to by Pausanias. Embrasures in the rock were probably used to place objects or votive offerings. From here, Pausanisas continued northwards to where the town of Leonidio now stands.

His references to sites in today’s municipality of Monemvasia bear witness to the area’s long history, inviting today’s travellers to follow in his footsteps through this unique region of Greece.